Where Does Intake Fuel Line Attach From Fuel Filter 1995 T100 3rz

So it was getting time for a new fuel filter on my 96 2.7L and I kept putting it off afterwards hearing most what a horrendous pain in the ass the task was. I checked the DIY threads and couldnt detect a 2.7L fuel filter one (saw the video but there wasnt an actual writeup) so I went ahead and made one. Although this is a pretty straightforward job, Im hoping at that place may be a fleck or two of knowledge that would help novice DIYers out.
Similar any job, using the proper tools allows yous to practise the chore the right way and to salve time. I'm certain many of the fuel filter horror stories are a result of folks non having the proper tools for the job. Permit me clinch you that the fuel filter replacement on the 2.7L tin be done pretty damn painlessly. If you employ my verbal tool list below, you lot tin can become through this job in a relative cakewalk.

So here is Moco'south painless fuel filter in half-dozen easy steps writeup:

Tool List (Aside from those required to lift vehicle and remove wheel):
- Liquid Wrench penetrating fluid
- regular size phillips screwdriver
- three/eight drive ratchet
- 17mm socket
- 12 mm socket
- 10 mm socket
- 10 inch ratchet extension
- 6 inch ratchet extension
- iii inch ratchet extension
- three/8 drive universal joint
- ii (TWO) 17mm combination or ratcheting wrench
- 14 mm combination wrench
- 19 mm combination wrench
- decent size pry bar or equivalent (at to the lowest degree 24 inches)
- stool or sturdy box to stand on
- magnetic wand
- thin apartment bract screwdriver or hook and pin set up
- apartment jaw pliers
STEP 1:
Safely lift and support truck and remove cycle.

Stride 1A:
Pull dorsum the splash skirt in driver's side bike well toward front of truck.

NOTE: Black arrow shows splash brim folded over towards front of truck. Reddish arrows show mounting holes for splash skirt. In my case, the splash skirt pulls out easily by hand. You may need to pop out the plastic mounting screws with a flat blade screwdriver if they don't pull out easily past manus

Notation two: At this point, information technology would be a good thought to spray some Liquid Wrench on the fuel filter subclass bolts and the fuel filter line banjo bolt on the elevation of the engine bay (photo in Pace 3) and the fuel line plumbing fixtures behind the fuse box (photo in Step 2)

Once you lot have the splash skirt out of the way, y'all tin can poke your head into the wheel well admission expanse and run into this:

Here the red arrows indicate to the front fuel line plumbing equipment which is a 17mm banjo bolt and the forepart of the fuel filter body

Pace ii:
Move upward to the engine bay and locate your fuel line straight behind the fuse box. The fuel line fitting consists of a 19mm and a 14mm portion.

It would behoove you lot to spray the plumbing equipment with Liquid Wrench and give it a few minutes to soak in (for best results exercise this the night before or prior to jacking the truck up and removing the wheel). Utilize your 19mm and 14mm combination wrenches to break loose the fuel line fitting and separate the fuel filter line from the vehicle fuel line. You volition only lose a little trickle of fuel, nothing to worry almost.

STEP 3:
Move up to the rear of the engine and locate your upper fuel filter line (once again a 17mm banjo commodities). Its very difficult to run into at first and it took me a good 15 minutes of hunting earlier I was able to finally notice this guy poking through. It helps to remove your intake plastics (apply your phillips screw driver to loosen the retaining rings and pull the plastic tubing off and disconnect the vacuum hoses – a picayune liquid wrench on these things makes a large difference besides). Place your stool past the driver's side wheel well and poke your head over to the peak of the motor, oriented toward the rear driver'southward side of the intake manifold.

This photo shows where the banjo bolt is oriented:

Here is what you lot will see when you lot stand on your stool and look down at the banjo plumbing fixtures:

Every bit you can see, information technology's a scrap easier to get to fuel line bolt when the intake plastics are out of the way:

Use your ratchet, a 17mm socket, and an extension to intermission the banjo commodities loose and remove the bolt.
NOTE: At that place will be a washer on the lesser of this bolt – brand sure non to lose it. Once you remove the bolt, you lot can use a small apartment head screwdriver or a pick/hook to remove the washer:

At present your fuel filter is asunder from the fuel lines at both the bottom and top cease.

Pace 4:
Motility back down to the wheel well. If you crane your caput properly, yous will see the top and bottom mounting bolts for the fuel filter bracket into the engine cake. This is where all the gnashing of teeth nearly this job happens. Notwithstanding, I constitute this to exist really pretty easy with the proper tools. The bottom commodities is cake – use your ratchet, a half-dozen inch extension, and a 12mm sockets and break loose and remove the bottom bolt:

Stride 4A:
The top bolt is a niggling tougher, but with the proper tools information technology comes out no trouble. The follow prepare-up worked awesome for me: Place a 3 inch extension on the 12mm socket, fit a universal joint behind the 3inch extension, hook upward a half-dozen inch extension to the universal joint, then use a 10 inch extension hooked upwards to the 6 inch and so place your ratchet on the ten inch extension. Your contraption will look like this:

This will give you the angle you need to break the top bolt loose and remove it. Use one hand to put pressure on the extensions to brand sure the socket is mating properly with the bolt and use the other paw to work the ratchet. All you need to do is break the bolt loose some and then you tin can use the small extensions and your hand to remove it the rest of the way.

Stride 4B:
Once your fuel line fittings are free and your bracket bolts are out, you can use a long pry bar to gently push the fuel filter assembly away from the engine block and remove the fuel filter. You may not need to do this just mine was stuck on at that place pretty well and I needed an excuse to pause out my new set of Craftsman pry confined. Fit the pry bar in from the front of the engine bay and only apply gentle pressure level until the filter assembly gives.

STEP 4C:
Now your fuel filter associates is complete loose. The only obstacle hither is routing the pinnacle fuel line through the intake manifold and acme of the engine and out the forepart. It takes some wiggling and jostling but the whole thing should come out pretty easy one time you lot piece of work the angles.

Here is what the assembly looks like off the engine:

NOTE: Cherry-red arrow shows front bolt of fuel filter (lesser fuel line), Green arrow shows rear bolt of fuel filter (meridian fuel line), Blueish pointer shows filter bracket, and Orangish arrows show fuel line fittings

Stride v:
Now y'all need to break loose the 17mm plumbing equipment on each end of the fuel filter and so you can transfer them to the new fuel filter. The way I did this was using 2 17mm combination wrenches to apply contrary force per unit area (1 wrench holding i end and the other loosening the reverse). When you get one gratuitous, you can tuck the fuel filter side by side to something relatively soft – like your tire and wedge your mitt or knee on the filter to concur it in place in order to remove the other 17mm plumbing fixtures.

Note: Pay attention to the orientation of the fuel line at each end of the filter in gild to put them on the new filter the aforementioned manner so that when yous become to reconnect the fuel lines, yous don't have weird angles and contortions to get them in identify

NOTE two:Each of the 17mm banjo bolts on the fuel filter has a top and lesser washer. Make sure to non lose these and to place them on the new filter the aforementioned style.

STEP 5A:
Lastly, you need to transfer your bracket to the new filter if it did non come with one. There is a 10mm commodities going vertically to the filter through both ends of the bracket. Striking this bolt with Liquid Wrench and wedged the filter nether your knee or against a tire to remove the commodities and bracket and identify information technology on the new filter. The new filter has groves that line upward the bracket – just slide information technology over the groves.

Annotation: In my case, I monkeyed the bracket commodities and since it was old and rusted, it snapped in half and caused me to take to drill out the remnants of the commodities. Luckily, information technology turns out that the two bracket bolts securing the filter to the cake provide enough tension to secure the filter and I didn't demand to replace the commodities.

Pace 6:
REINSTALL – exercise everything in reverse guild and you volition have this project wrapped up.
Note: I put the filter in place and connected the top and bottom fuel lines before putting the 12mm filter bracket bolts in every bit the height and bottom lines helped secure the filter and hold it in place to make replacing the subclass bolts a bit easier.

Thats it. Good luck!

The .pdf version is attached for anyone that may want the 'to go' option.
Fastened Files:
se7enine MCMLXXIX

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Prissy writeup, this is my side by side chore in early spring.
SpeedoJosh Well-Known Fellow member

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Nice write up. I tried to practise it by just removing the filter. Didn't work as I couldn't attain stride five in that small infinite. Might endeavor once more. Never idea to remove the lines and pull everything out.
Revco Got that PMA

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Exactly how I did mine the other day. Wish I had waited and read this first instead of figuring information technology out myself. Probably could have saved an hour of cussing, throwing tools, and wouldn't have lost and so much blood. Next fourth dimension I'm merely going to build a new setup and relocate the bastard birthday, but this write upward will definitely help folks out.
CUtacomaTIGER Unprofessional Driver

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interesting idea to remove office of the lines. i suppose it makes it easier and wouldn't accept thought to practice it that way
Thanks guys, glad that you all found it useful.
PurpleT Pragmatic Fellow member

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I have been purposely avoiding doing this due to all the prior comments about how hard this is to DIY. I am now reconsidering. Splendid write upwards with pics. Two thumbs upward. Just out of curiosity how long did the entire project have?
I cant prevarication, the whole thing took me about 2 hrs and 15 minutes. But a good hour of that (or more) was spent drilling the broken bolt body out of the filter subclass and futzing around with drills and drill $.25.
Doing it for the second time, I bet I could get the filter associates out in 15 minutes after the wheel was pulled, probably could exercise the whole job in 45 minutes if I really hurried. Book time on the 2.7L filter is ane.3 hours, and so if you practice this at a dealership, you are paying no less than $130-$150 for labor alone. With the filter costing $xxx-$forty, you are shut to $200.

For your get-go fourth dimension, if you lot upkeep yourself 2 hours, y'all should be good.
tan4x4 Well-Known Fellow member

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Anyone know if this process would work, as written, on a 1999 ii.7? I am assuming information technology does.
I believe all 1st gen (up to 2004) 2.7L's are the same fuel filter wise.
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I replaced the fuel filter on my 98 2.7 last summer. I removed the wheel and inner fender liner then disconnected the banjo bolts and removed the filter and bracket as 1 piece. I separated the filter and bracket once I had it out, installed the bracket on the new filter and so installed in reverse club.
Disconnecting the hoses like the OP did probably would've fabricated the job a bit easier. Proficient thinking

It wasn't too tough and took me just over an 60 minutes from jacking information technology up until I started it up again. Don't be intimidated if you're contemplating this! You can do it and your truck will thank you. At 125k my truck yet had the original fuel filter in it.
se7enine MCMLXXIX

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Well but changed out my filter last night and I only needed the 17 mm socket, 12 mm socket w/ extension and ratchet. Considering of my elevator and non having the fender skirts all I had to exercise was attain in and loosen the bolts and remove by hand. Probably just took me 20 minutes. Even with 33's I still could reach with ease and remove/install filter while working effectually the tire.
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Many cheers Moco for providing the instructions and added motivation for this project. I completed the job today. I opted to take the fuel lines off from the filter as indicated above be Se7enine instead of the suggested points. I was worried about trying to get the line on the back of the filter threaded support to the elevation of the engine again at the correct bending. Took me about two.v hours from the time I started dragging tools out until I had about of the stuff picked upward and put away. I would definitely recommend spraying the bolts with some type of penetrating oil the night before. I used a Q-tip since most of the bolts were non easily accessible. Thanks again Moco for all your hard piece of work.
Good job.
Glad you found my photos useful.
SpeedoJosh Well-Known Member

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Just did this yesterday. Probably took about two-3 hours. Most of that time was spent playing tetris in the garage trying to become the jack out, then jacking upward the truck.
Hiccups I encountered.
one. The 19/14mm fitting was a bitch. I sprayed with PB blaster and let sit, didn't help much. The 14mm terminate started stripping from the go go. I was going to end after it started getting so bad, but already had a couple turns, then figured I would keep. Busted out the crescent to get a good grip, and afterward that information technology stopped stripping. It was wearisome though.

ii. The fitting in the back was easy. I was super careful taking it off not wanting to drib the washer. Well I got it off, and held it tight, and had the washer, then I hear it, "Clink, clink, clink." Eff, there's two washers. Luckily I found it on the ground.

three. From there is was pretty unproblematic, just switch over and reinstall. I left the mounting subclass lose until I had the two ends hooked up, and so mooked information technology upwardly and so I could get correct placement and angle of the mounting bracket, then tightened it up.

Cheers for the write up. Concluding time I attempted this, I took more time trying to undo the filter with the lines still continued. Couldn't get enough torque on them to break free. Much easier this way.
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thanks for the write up, its going to be very useful to all of us to figure out how to practice this job.
just wondering if anyone has relocated the filter to a more "easy to go to" location because where it is is a real PITA and even though you might merely change it in one case every 5-10 years it doesn't make sense to me to get through all this work and then put the damn thing dorsum in such a difficult to achieve place.

why not just cut the lines off after the fittings and run a fuel line to a generic fuel filter y'all mount under the hood somewhere?
Would this process be identical for the 2.4 motor, does anyone know? (i.due east., are the 2.4 motors effectively the same as the 2.seven with the difference being diameter and stroke?)
Ed
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yes, I have the 2.four and I tin can tell you everything looks exactly the same in the aforementioned locations.
if you look under the hood and peek nether the front of the intake manifold y'all tin just barely see the rim of the fuel filter under there simply y'all cant really come across much more then that.

before someone showed me this thread I was asking if I had to pull the intake manifold off to change information technology lol.
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